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If this were any other titanium jeweler's web page there would be a paragraph or two about the history of titanium, how it's used in the aerospace industry and how strong and non-allergenic it is. You don't see a history of gold on the web site of any jeweler who works in gold, do you? I would prefer to treat titanium as the metal I work with, not some kind of novelty substance.
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When describing titanium as it relates to jewelry it's easiest to define it by what it's not. It's not gold, silver or platinum. Most precious metal jewelry is formed in a process known as casting where liquid metal is poured into a mold to form the piece. This technique works well for precious metals because they have low melting points and there's no loss of metal in the process. There are other techniques that also work well with precious metals such as bezel or prong settings, where the metal is simply bent over to hold a gemstone, or silver soldering two pieces together. All of these techniques go into forming the images which pop into your mind when you think of jewelry.
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Titanium isn't precious (it's the 4th most abundant metal in the earth's crust), it's melting point is too high to cast (without great expense), it's yield strength is too high to bend around stones to form settings, and it can't be soldered. Making titanium jewelry is a negative process where it starts out as a block, and metal is removed to form the finished product. With such different production methods and metals of vastly different properties, there are going to be noticeable differences between titanium jewelry and the more common gold, silver, or platinum jewelry. Most of the jewelry requests I get are inspired by what people see in traditional metals. Lots of stone settings, repeating patterns or raised letters or shapes are examples of things that lend themselves well to casting soft metals but not machining harder metals. Each stone setting is a mechanical designing challenge - how do you get the stone in a setting [without breaking it] such that it's not going to fall out?
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Here are a few properties of titanium that make it ideally suited for jewelry:
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Non-allergenic - some people have bad reactions to metals but I have yet to run into the same problem with titanium. Titanium has become the metal of choice for medical implants such as heart valves for this reason.
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Light weight - for thousands of years gold has been used because of it's weight, you always know when you're wearing a gold ring. Most people with an active lifestyle would rather not have their ring(s) tug at their fingers with every movement.
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Durability - people who wear soft metal rings notice something after a few years: the rings get scratched and change shape. Titanium can also get scratched, it's just 200 times harder to do it. In most cases years of abuse can be erased in under 5 minutes at the buffer.
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Looks - while there are many designs in castable metals I can't copy, there are designs using the strength of titanium which softer metals can't match. Tension stone settings are a shining example. No closed setting could expose as much stone's surface area. More light = more sparkle.
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Strength - this is where the information floating around on the internet gets a little fuzzy. First there are the titanium jewelers throwing around buzz words like "aircraft grade" or alloy types such as 6/4. To simplify things, let's say that adding other elements can increase the strength of titanium. Pure titanium (known as CP or Commercially Pure) is at the bottom of the list when it comes to strength, then come the alloys used in producing seamless tubing (mostly 3/2.5), then there are the "aircraft grade" alloys (such as 6/4) which are much stronger and harder to machine. Those who insist that more is better will insist on aircraft grade titanium jewelry. I can be happy knowing that pure titanium is 200 times stronger than what most other jewelry is made of.
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Safety - a few minutes searching the internet for information about titanium rings will probably bring you to the most common warning: "It's dangerous to wear a titanium ring because it can't be cut off in an emergency". Once again, the information floating around on the internet is fuzzy at best. One of the reasons I work in commercially pure titanium is the ability to form shapes with hand tools such as files or saws. What can be used to form the ring can also be used to cut it apart. I wear my own wedding band while I work with no fear of it getting stuck. When you get into the stronger alloys, it's another story.
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Cost - titanium jewelry is very different from precious metal jewelry. The value lies in it's strength and the work that goes into making it, not simply the mass of the metal. Prices for titanium jewelry are as varied as the shops that produce the items. From the big CNC machine shops to the tiny titanium-smith's shop, the cost of a titanium piece is generally lower than that of a precious metal piece. Factor in the durability of a titanium piece, and you could be talking about a large savings over time.
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