
|
 Round |
Round gemstones work well in many types of titanium stone settings. The shape of the setting is created by simply drilling a hole and creating a channel around the perimeter to hold the stone's edge. Some method must be found to close the setting around the stone. Because the shape is uniform all the way around, just about any type of setting is possible with a round stone. Direct tension settings are easy because the shape automatically centers the stone in the setting. Helix designs hold the stone well without the fear that the stone will rotate and fall out. Bezel settings with a small opening are possible in some cases. Traditional prong settings are even possible - though I'm still working on them. |
| E x a m p l e s |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
 Marquise |
Curved sided stones such as oval and marquise shapes allow the use of channels in holding the stones, but the shape of the stone must be matched first. This step adds a level of complexity in setting a curved sided stone compared to a simple round stone. In some cases the stone can be held by just four points. The limited contact eliminates the need for curve matching and the shape of the stone prevents it from ever slipping out of the setting. |
| E x a m p l e s |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
 Oval |
|
 Pear |
Pear or teardrop shaped stones represent a special challenge. The setting will start off it's life as a simple drilled hole, much like setting a round stone, then the top must then be machined out to fit the top of the stone. Points on stones within a setting are a problem. The channel that holds the edge of the stone are cut with a round cutter. At a corner, the cutter will stop and change direction, but the channel it leaves will have a rounded profile. The stone's point isn't going to fit in the rounded profile, so the setting must be designed to eliminate the metal in that area. |
| E x a m p l e s |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
 Baguette |
Straight edged stone settings are very different from any of the curved settings, but offer a few advantages. Making a setting with square edges is mostly done on the milling machine using straight passes with the same cutter that makes the channel for any other type of stone setting. Unlike the other settings, there is never a need to match curves with a straight edged stone. Changing the type or color of the stone is easy, it even allows a slight change in ring size for simple tension settings. |
| E x a m p l e s |
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
 Square |
|
 Octagon |
|
 Princess |